GRAPE VINES must be pruned heavily to bear good crops. For the first three years after planting cut off all but six to eight bunches of immature grapes so that the energy can go toward strengthening the root system. From the fourth year on leave half the bunches on the vine. Training begins at two years but the method varies depending on the grape variety. The Four-Armed Kniffin System (see below) is the easiest for home gardeners and is most suitable for American varieties of grapes including 'Thompson Seedless', and 'Concord' to name a few. (Scroll further down for Muscadines/Southern Grapes)

Four-Armed Kniffin Sytem

Plant a grape vine and tie it to a stake allowing it to grow shoots. During the first dormant season choose the best shoot and cut all other shoots to their bases.

During the second summer, after you have trained the vine to a permanent trunk, set up the post and wire system as shown in the diagram above, 2 wires at a height of around 2 feet and two wires at a height of around 4 feet. When the vine has grown over a foot above the top wire pinch the top shoot a foot above the wire.

During the second winter, cut off the trunk right through the bud located just above the top wire. Remove all of the side shoots except for 4 nearest each of the sets of wires. Cut back these shoots to leave two buds remaining as shown in the diagram below.

During the third winter, as shown below, cut off all but 6 shoots from each of the upper and lower branches that came from the two bud spurs (blue in center). Cut the upper shoot back to 10 buds (blue upper) and attach to the top wire, and the lower shoot to 10 buds (blue lower) to the lower wire. Cut 4 shoots back to 2 buds (pictured in black. (Note: in the diagram below only one branch for one of the two wires is shown.)

From the fourth winter on cut off the canes that fruited in the prior season (Pictured below in red). Each of the 4 spurs as pictured above will have sent out two shoots (a total of 8) during the previous year. Leave 1 fruiting cane with 10 buds (pictured below in blue) and 1 spur with 2 buds on each of the four 4 spurs (pictured below in balck. Cut the upper shoots back as spurs with 2 buds (black), and cut the 2 lower shoots as fruiting canes with 10 buds (blue) for the coming growing season.

MUSCADINE VINES are the disease and insect resistant native grapes also known as 'Southern Grapes' or 'Scuppernongs'. Container grown Muscadines, which can be planted any time of year, are available at the nursery year round.

Before planting your vine establish a trellis system, usually a single No.9 wire 5 feet above the ground attached to the top of two pressure treated support posts spaced 20' part. The posts should be no less than 4" in diameter. Plant the vine in the center of the posts.

First Growing Season - Train one shoot from the plant to form a single trunk and remove all other shoots and lateral branches on the shoot selected to be the main trunk. When the vines grows beyond the wire cut it off at 3" above wire. a and allow 2 canes to follow the wire in either direction. Let grow naturally and leave vine as is during first winter.

Second Winter - Cut back canes growing from the main lateral stems to 2 or 3 buds as shown in the diagram below. From the fourth winter on removesome of the clusters of fruiting spurs to maintain vigor and to allow new spur clusters to form. Prune heavily at the top of the trunk to prevent excessive growth there. Keep area around the base of the trunk weed free by spraying KILLZALL Weed Killer.