What is a conventional garden? A conventional garden is one in which a large area is planted in rows at the ground level. Though these gardens have been the norm in our region for years past, many home gardeners are switching to raised bed gardening which is much easier, less expensive, and less time consuming. Conventional gardening takes more time out of busy lives. Conventional gardening requires more fertilization, compost, weed and insect control, as well as back breaking tilling of soil and picking of vegetables. We won't spend much time here getting into the ins and outs of conventional gardens as there are so many benifits to gardening in raised beds.

What is a 'raised bed' garden? The 'raised' part means that the garden soil level is higher than the surrounding soil, and 'bed' implies size small enough to work without actually stepping on the bed. A bed should be no wider than 4' but can be as long as desired. The bed does not have to be enclosed or framed, however framing offers other opportunities. Raised bed gardens are perfect where space is limited.

There are many reasons for the raised bed revival, but probably the most important reasons are the greater level of production per square foot of garden and the ease of working. Studies have shown that the average gardner can produce twice the amount of vegetables per square foot in raised beds as opposed to conventional gardens. Raised beds don't require as much space between rows because no walking is done inside the bed to cultivate or harvest. Hence, vegetables are spaced in raised bed at a distance just enough to aviod crowding, but close enough to shade out weeds.

Another reason for increased production in a given space is improvement of soil conditions. There is no compaction of soil in a raised bed as there is no treading or tilling performed with heavy tillers or tractors. Compost or other soil ammendments can be added in greater amounts to the smaller areas of beds with none going to waste. Raised beds also keep the moisture content of the soil more consistently even during excess rain periods. Most vegetables do not like wet feet.

The gardener shares some benefits from raised bed gardening too. The foremost is timely planting. Conventional gardeners must wait for a dry period to begin planting, however raised beds don't get boggy and can be planted whenever the gardener is ready. Rows between beds can be sodded, mulched, or paved with bricks or steppings stones to avoid muddy feet. Raised beds also make it easier come harvest time because the gardener doesn't have to bend over as far, if at all. Raised beds can be from 6" to 24" in height, or higher. Pest control becomes easier too. Before building a raised bed lay some chicken wire or hardware cloth down to discourage moles. Low fences can be attached to discourage rabbits or other small animals from entering the bed. Plant perennial 'Bog Salvia' plants nearby the bed(s) to repel deer. Weed control can be achieved much easier in beds with weed barrier fabric.

Raised beds are also perfect for drip or soaker hose irrigation where water can be dispersed only where it is needed. Soaker hoses also reduce disease. Design your beds keeping the length of irrigation hose and the width of weed barrier fabric in mind.

Certain vining vegetables such as squash, cucumbers, and melons may not be suitable for raised beds and might be better grown in other areas at ground level.

Constructing a Raised Bed - There are only a few guidelines to follow when constructing a raised bed vegetable garden. Keep the beds narrow and match their length to watering systems. A north-south orientaion is best for lower growing crops, allowing sunlight to both sides of the bed. An east-west orientation is best for taller growing vegetables such as pole beans, corn, caged tomatoes and okra. Thus lower growing vegetables could be planted on the south side of the bed and still recieve full sun.

Avoid the use of creosote or pentachlorophenol-treated lumber as these agents are toxic and will leach into the garden soil and injur plants, and you as well. Use pressure treated lumber, stone, wall blocks, or brick.

The soil in the bed should consist of at least one-third native soil, even if it is heavy clay. Blend the native soil with plenty of compost adding sand if you like to achieve sufficient soil level in the bed. Make sure to add about 40 lbs of pelletized lime per 500 sq. ft. of bed space to adjust ph.

Raised bed possibilities are endless. Beds of 24" or higher require very little bending to work in the garden. Benches can even be built to make working in the garden even easier. Because a raised bed warms up quicker than the ground they can easily be used as a cold frame by covering with clear plastic, allowing then to be planted earlier and protected during a late cold spell. Supports for poles, cages, or trellises can be mounted to the frame for longer life and ease of installation or removal.

Perhaps the easiest and most practical way to build a raised bed is with landscape timbers. Treated landscape timbers, as shown in the diagram below, are available in several sizes make an attractive bed and last for many years. Research has shown that the treatment used on these timbers does not leach into garden soil and injur plants. Drill holes into timbers every 4 feet as you build the bed walls so that you can drive rebar through to a depth in the soil equal to the height of the wall.

If you use dimensional lumber such as 2x8's to build the side walls with you will need to use decay-resistant wood stakes to hold the wall in place. Attach the stakes with screws to the inside of the wall and they will not be noticed.

For a unique-looking raised bed cut landscape timbers off at a length of 2-4' and set the posts vertically in the ground, half buried and half above the ground.

Modern wall blocks are also great for use to build raised beds. Wall blocks will cost more, but last much longer. Make sure that the blocks you use are interlocking and suitable for use at the height you want to build to.

After building your raised bed walls and have backfilled with the soil mixture you are ready to plant. Below is a listing of vegetables that perform well in Zone 8.

When to Plant Summer Vegetables - Typically, April 15 is the starting date for planting your summer vegetable garden in Zone 8. We usually have no more frost after this time. You may plant tomatoes in the garden earlier, however be ready to cover the young plants with clear plastic or milk jugs if a frost is forecasted. Starting your vegetable plants from seed indoors, or in a backyard greenhouse, is a good way to get a head start.

Adding Organic Matter - Between each growing season till or turn in a 1/2" layer of homemade compost or other organic matter such as Claycutter, Mushroom Compost, or Composted Cow Manure. The past seasons crop will have depleted organic matter and beneficial bacteria needed for healthy and vigorous growth.

Fertilizing - Fertilize your vegetables with 5-10-15 or Milorganite every 4 weeks or so, or if you are an organic gardener, continue to broadcast your homemade compost from time to time around the root systems of your plants throughout the growing season.

Insect Control - For insect control in the garden you can use Liquid Sevin or Malathion. Always follow instructions on the product label for mixing and application rates. If you are an organic gardener you can use Safer Insecticidal Soap or Safer Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer for insect control in the garden. Safer also makes 3-In-1 Garden Spray, which includes insecticidal soap for insect control, sulfur fungicide, and neem oil. This spray does not harm beneficial insects and can be used on vegetables or any other plants with complete safety around pets and children.

Disease Control - For disease control in the vegetable garden we recommend using Safer Garden Fungicide, which can also be used on fruits, flowering plants, ornamentals, and roses to prevent black spot, rust, leaf spot, and powdery mildew. Safer also makes 3-In-1 Garden Spray, which includes insecticidal soap for insect control, sulfur for fungicide, and neem oil. This spray does not harm beneficial insects and can be used on vegetables or any other plants. Use Bonide Rot Stop on tomatoes to control blossom end rot.

Make Your Own Organic Compost