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WILSON BROS Nursery
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How To Plant A Tree
 

Diagram For Planting a Container Grown Tree

*Scroll below for printer friendly version

 
1. Begin by digging a hole twice as wide as the rootball and no deeper than the rootball.
 
2. Remove tree from container and scratch exterior of root ball to loosen feeder roots. Place in hole making sure that the top edge of the root ball is 1-2" above ground level. Place more soil in hole and tamp if necessary to achieve proper height. Note: Japanese Maples and Dogwoods should be planted with 4-6" of rootball as they do not like wet feet.
 
3. Mix organic soil ammendment such as Claycutter at a 50/50 ratio with soil that was removed from the hole. Backfill soil mixture to top of rootball, tamping as you go to remove any air pockets, and taper gradually to ground level. Essentially, you are planting the rootball in a 'raised mound.' Do not place any soil on top of rootball.
 
4. With remaining soil mixture build a water retaining ring to 3" or so in height around perimeter of mound.

 

5. After planting water thoroughly.
 
6. For larger trees it may staking may be necessary. Tree stake kits are perhaps the easiest way to go about staking. If you would like to make your own stakes ask your local nursery where you purchased the tree about proper staking methods. Tree stakes can be removed after 1 year.
 

7. Broadcast a good granular tree fertilizer such as 14-7-7 w/elements atop rootball at an amount suggested on label of bag.

------ GROUND LEVEL

An excellent alternative method of fertilization, and one that we always use, is slow release Agriform Fertilizer Tablets. The size tablet we use, and sell, requires one tablet per 1/2" of trunk diameter.

 

 

8. To retain adequate moisture apply 2-3" of bark mulch or pinestraw to a distance of 2-3 feet from trunk of tree or just beyond water retaining ring.

 
 
CLICK HERE to view descriptive listings with photos of all types of Trees that perform well in Zone 8

We recommend planting container-grown trees rather than field-grown/balled-and-burlapped trees. Container trees come with their entire root systems in tact, while balled-and-burlapped trees have lost half or more of their roots during the digging process. In our experience we have found that container trees are easier to manage, root in faster, grow much more quickly, and have a much greater survival rate.

SEE: HOW TO TRANSPLANT AN EXISTING SHRUB OR TREE

 
Printer Friendly Version
 
Printing Instructions: Right click anywhere on diagram below and select 'Print' or 'Print Picture from the drop-down or pop-up menu that appears.

 

 

 

 

 
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