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Disease Control for Plants & Trees

Is There a Fungus Among Us?

Below are descriptions, images and remedies for the most common diseases found on ornamental plants in Zone 8.

Always read and follow the instructions for safe mixing and application on the label of each fungicide you use. Pay close attention to the types of lawns a fungicide can and can't be used on.

Chlorosis

Symptoms: Chlorosis is a condition that may result from disease, or infestation, poor growing conditions, or lack of nutrients in the soil, and can be recognized by the yellowing of foliage on evergreen shrubs or trees such as Azaleas, Camelias, and Hollies.

Solution: If there is no evidence of damage from insects, and the soil is well-drained than chlorisis is probably present as a result of an iron deficiency. To correct this unsightly condition you may spray foliage with an iron fertilizer such as Miracid or, for best results, broadcast Hi-Yield Iron Plus around the root system of the plant. It may also be beneficial to mulch around the root system with an organic product such as Claycutter or Mushroom Compost to enhance overall health. Yellowing of foliage on Junipers could be an indicator of spidermites. Shake a branch over your open palm and look for the tiny crawling insects. Read label to find proper mixing and application instructions.

 

Fire Blight

Symptoms: Blossoms or ends of branches turn brown, then black, and then die. Most prevelant on fruit trees, flowering fruit trees such as the Bradford Pear, and rarely on a few ornamentals such as cotoneaster. Catch this disease as quickly as possible to inhibit further spread and possibly death of the tree.

Solution: Prune infected twigs or branches at least 12" beyond decay as soon as disease is noticed and destroy debris by burning. It is best to sterlilize pruners with rubbing alcohol between each cut.

 

 

 

 

Leaf Gall

Symptoms: Developing new leaves and new shoots are thickened, fleshy, and enlarged. Diseased leaves can become up to 10 times thicker than normal leaves. Found mostly on Azaleas and Camelias.

Solution: Once the galls develop, the best control is to remove them when they are first noticed. Search carefully to remove all galls. If they are not removed and destroyed the disease will be more severe the next year.

 

 

Black Spot

Symptoms: Circular black spots with fringed margins appear on the surfaces of leaves in the spring. The tissue around the spots or the entire leaf may turn yellow, and the infected leaves may drop prematurely. During hot and humid conditions certain roses are highly susceptible to black spot, except for the Knock Out roses and a few others. Some shrubs and trees are prone to develop leaf spot.

Solution: For Roses spray with a solution of Fertilome Liquid Fungicide at 7-10 day intervals through hot and humid weather. Spray other shrubs such as Azaleas and Hollies 2 to 3 times at 2 week intervals. Black Spot or Leaf Spot can be brought on by spraying foliage with water. We recommend watering susceptible plants at the roots. Remove fallen infected leaves from under plant. Mulching once a year with organic matter such as Claycutter or Mushroom Compost enhances overall health and disease resistance. Also consider fertilizing susceptible plants with Milorgantite for enhanced disease resistance.

 

Lichen

Symptoms: Brown, gray, green, or yellow, crusty, soft or leaflike growths develop on trees and some shrubs, typically those growing in moist areas. The growths are usually found on the lower or shaded part of trunks and branches.

Solution: Algea, lichens, and mosses do not harm the plant, but may be unsightly. Sometimes these trees or plants could be under stress due to the moisture retentive soil. Control lichens by pruning away surrounding vegetation to increase the amount of light and air flow, which will also help to dry out the soil around the roots. A light mulching with organic matter such as Claycutter or Mushroom Compost to enhance overall health can also be very beneficial. Also consider fertilizing susceptible plants with Milorgantite for enhanced disease resistance.

 

Powdery Mildew

Symptoms: Leaves, flowers, or young stems are covered with a thin layer of light grayish-white powdery material. Infected leaves may turn yellowish and drop. Older varieties of crape myrtles, some varieties of roses, and many other plants and trees are susceptible to powdery mildew. If you are planning to purchase crape myrtles in the future make sure to get the Fauriei hybrid crape myrtles, which are resistant to this disease.

Solution: Spray with Fertilome Liquid Fungicide at 10-14 day intervals until mildew is gone.

 

Rust / Cedar Apple Rust

Symptoms: Yellow to brown spots up to a 1/4" in diameter appear on the upper surfaces of the leaves starting in the spring or late fall.

Solution: For Apple Trees - Cedar Apple Rust cannot be controlled on this seasons apples. Next spring, spray apple trees with Fruit Tree Spray when the flower buds turn pink, again when 75% of the petals ahve fallen from the bloosoms, and once more 10 days later. When practical do not plant apple trees within several hundred yards of junipers or red cedar.

For other plants that have rust: At first sign of rust pick off and destroy the infected leaves and spray with Fertilome Liquid Fungicide at 10 to 14 day intervals. Rake up and destroy any infected leaves that have fallen. Prune off and destroy infected twigs.

 

Sooty Mold

Symptoms: In late summer or fall, crape myrtles and gardenias may develop a sooty black substance that appears on the surface of leaves and sometimes the stems .

Solution: Honeydew aphids are your problem here. The aphids come from the undersides of leaves at night and leave a sticky residue on the surface of leaves. The black sooty mold then begins to grow on the sticky residue. Spray both the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, as well as the branches with Malathion to kill aphids.

 

Shotgun Disease

Symptoms: Found primarily on Otto Luyken laurels, this condition looks as though someone shot the plant with bird shot from a shotgun. Leaves will have many small holes. The condition is caused by heat and humidity. Otto Luyken laurels prefer afternoon shade.

Solution: We know of no cure for shotgun disease on Otto Luyken laurels. The plant will not die from this condition, however infected branches can be pruned away once heat and humidity have subsided. Next year the plants will leaf out in spring with new foliage that covers the previous years damaged foliage. Also consider fertilizing with Milorgantite for enhanced health and disease resistance.

Disease Prevention Tips

  • Conditions favoring most diseases on ornamentals are when the weather is warm and humid, and there is an over-abundance of rain.
  • If you have a sprinkler system make sure not to add to this problem by running it during these wet periods. During dry spells run your sprinkler system during the early morning hours so that the sun can dry water off the leaves. Watering during the late evening or night time can promote the onset of damaging funguses..
  • Maintain plant vigor by following proper fertilization requirements for your ornamentals. SEE: Fertilizing Shrubs & Trees
  • Keep an eye out for leaves that develop fungus or disease and remove the diseased leaves as soon as possible to inhibit spread.

Remember, many of the diseases that attack ornamentals can be prevented by following proper cultural practices, and fungicides may not be needed.

Again, Read and follow the instructions for safe mixing and application on the label of each fungicide you use. Pay close attention to the grasses a fungicide can and can't be used on.

Related Topics

Insect Control on Plants and Trees

Fertilizing Plants & Trees

Planting a Shrub

Planting a Tree

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