Once these two structures are
in place, you'll use a pump in,
or outside the pond to keep water
recirculating from the pond to
the top of your outdoor waterfall,
where it can plunge back down
splashing into the pond.
With the pond complete, that
means one of the two structures
is out of the way. Now it's time
to turn attention to the more
exciting structure: the cascade
design itself. And that means
taking another look at the rocks
that will be used.
The most important rocks are
what might be termed the 'spillway'
rocks. 'Spillway' means the rocks
directly over which the water
will cascade. In a cascade design
you will use two or more rocks,
one above the other and so as
in the picture below.
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Top
Rock |
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Middle
Rock |
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Bottom
Rock |
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The size of your waterfall is
another thing to be considered.
Design your pond to match the
size of your outdoor space; not
too big, not too small. Accordingly,
design your waterfall to match
the size of the pond it will spill
in to.
You'll have to choose a pump.
Waterfalls can be constructed
atop level ground by using the
dirt dug from the pond to create
a berm behind the pond. If you
are lucky enough, your waterfall
can be built into an existing
slope on your property. Either
way it will require some work.
You will need to lay a flexible
liner beneath the stones used
to construct the waterfall. This
liner should drape over the backside
of the berm or go above the top
rock on a slope and at the bottom
should drape over the liner used
in the pond so no water can escape.
TIP: Before laying the liner
you should stair-step the face
of your berm for the waterfall.
This will allow you to place the
back edge of your flat cascade
stones flatly. The front edge
of the cascade stones can be held
up and adjusted for water flow
by placing small rock between
the cascade stones.
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Small
support rocks between
cascade stones --> |
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One alternative to using natural
rocks placed atop a liner for
a waterfall is to use pre-cast
concrete forms that mimic stone
for the cascading structure. They're
compact and easy to install, as
they're simply stacked up over
the edge of the pond.
In building you waterfall you
should use top quality equipment
and materials. The little extra
money spent will save you future
replacement costs and maintenance
headaches in the future. The amount
you will need to spend for construction
will depend on the overall size
of the pond/waterfall. Whatever
you do, do not skimp on the pump
that will generate the moving
water over your waterfall and
into the pond. To build a reliable
and beautiful waterfall you will
need the right rocks (in the right
places) and lots of moving water!
Plumbing
- Some people
like to create a raging waterfall
while others prefer the trickle
effect. The plumbing for either
choice is quite simple and you
should have no problems handling
this yourself. Once you have selected
a pump to create the desired effect
for your waterfall, you will then
need to select the appropriate
size piping to match the pump.
Pumps come with flow valves so
that you can adjust the amount
of flow to achieve just the right
effect you desire.
Electricity
- Pumps can be custom ordered
with cords of various lengths
which can be plugged into ground
fault outlets from your home or
other nearby structure/building.
If your pond/waterfall is just
too far away from an outlet you
may need to hire an electrician
to install a ground fault outlet
nearer to your pond.
Tools and supplies needed
to build your own waterfall:
- Round and flat point
shovel
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- Can of orange spray
paint
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- Plastic flower pot (large)
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- Tubing to run from pump
to top of waterfall
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- Flexible** or rigid
pond liner
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* Remember not to skimp on the
pump!
** Buy a crack resistant liner.
(not rubber)
Use mostly flat rocks to construct
the waterfall. We usually select
one larger and thicker flat rock
for the base of the waterfall.
For the rest of the structure
a mixture of sizes and shapes
is fine, but include at least
a few large, flat rocks. The rocks
used in the waterfall, that will
come into contact with spilling
or trickling water, should always
be angled slightly forward so
that the moving water moves in
the right direction: towards,
and into your pond!
The idea behind the selection
of spillway rocks for a cascade
design is to choose rocks that
are most likely to channel the
falling water in the precise direction
in which you want it to go. In
addition to seeking out relatively
flat rocks with sharp edges, see
if you can find rocks that are
slightly cupped. Occasionally
you'll come across flat rocks
that curl up ever so slightly
at the edges, leaving a depression
in the middle. The natural channel
in such rocks will be greatly
advantageous for the creation
of the spillways in your cascade
design.
After you've selected some rocks
for your waterfall it's now time
to start building. Actually, before
you start building it there are
a few other things you must do:
1.
Choosing a Pump for a Waterfall
- Pumps are
available in both submersible
and external (out-of-pond models).
Reputable water
garden suppliers have
charts
and other information available
that can help you select the
best model and connecting equipment
for your purposes. For the smaller
pond, a submersible pump is
the most economical. Depending
on the size of the pond, a filter
and even a skimmer
may also be incorporated.
Pumps come in a confusing array
of models and sizes.You will
need a pump if you are planning
on moving water in your pond,
whether by a waterfall, stream,
fountain, or spouting ornament.
Below is some information that
will help you determine what
size of pump you will need for
your pond or water feature.
It will not matter whether the
pond has a liner, or if it is
a preformed pond.
Pumps are sized by gallons
per hour (GPH) output at one
foot of lift or height. Larger
capacity pumps are rated by
horsepower (hp). Manufacturers
offer charts that break down
the power of each size pump
according to incremental heights
of one foot. Some companies
label pumps by GPH while others
assign letter or number designations
that require cross-referencing
to charts.
It is recommended that the
water in a basic pond be turned
between ½ to 1 times
per hour. A 500-gallon pond
should have at least a 500 Gallon
Per Hour pump. When sizing a
pump for a pond there are a
few other considerations. How
high will the pump have to lift
water? Will there be a waterfall
or fountain? Will there be filters?
All of these variables reduce
the amount of flow, which could
affect water quality and clarity.
(Don't let any of this technical
information about pumps scare
you away! A few simple mesurements
taken will provide your pond
supply source or local
pond consultant with
the information needed to assist
you in choosing the right pump.
Just remember this: DO NOT skimp
on the pump!)
Important Measurements
to Write Down - To
determine the pump required
for your pond:
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Estimate
the vertical height from the
top of your pump to the top
of your waterfall or stream
and write this measurement
down.
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Add another
foot of height (or lift) for
every 10 feet of hosing you
will be using and write this
measurement down.
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If you plan
to have a stream a general
rule of thumb is to figure
your stream/waterfall requirement
as 150 gallons per hour per
inch width of the spillway
or channel. For example, if
your stream or waterfall spillway
will be 10 inches wide, you
will need a pump that produces
a flow of 1500 gallons per
hour (at whatever combined
height of the feature and
another foot of height for
every ten feet of hosing to
get there).
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This may
sound a bit confusing so just
write down all the measurements
(heights and widths) you can
think of so that when you
consult with a professional
he/she will have these measurement
to assist you in determining
the size pump you need.
NOTE: It is
best to order a pump that will
more than handle your needs as
pumps come with valves that allow
you to reduce the amount of flow.
Submersible Pumps
are placed directly in the pond.
They are free of distracting
noise and can be used to drain
your pond when necessary. These
pumps do have a disadvantage.
The pump seal can rupture, sending
oil coolant into the water.
This can prevent surface gas
exchanges, thereby endangering
your fish. We would recommend
the new magnetic-drive
pump, which avoids the
use of coolants. They are more
expensive to buy but are far
less expensive to operate.
Calculating
Water Volume
Rectangle Ponds.
Length in feet x width in feet
x depth in feet =cubic feet.
Example: 10' L x 6' W x 2' D
= 120 cubic feet x 7.5 gallons
= 900 gallons
Circular pond.
3.14 (1/2 diameter in feet x
1/2 diameter in feet) x depth
in feet = cubic feet.
Free form shapes.
Break the pond down into a series
of rectangles and circles and
figure the volume of each area
separately, then add the volumes
together.
NOTE: Each
cubic foot contains 7.5 gallons
of water, so always multiply
the total number of cubic feet
times 7.5 to determine the total
number of gallons. Write down
the total volume of water your
pond contains.
Recommended Tubing Diameter
For Pumps To Waterfalls:
1/2-inch diameter for flows
up to 120gph
3/4-inch diameter for flows
up to 350gph
1-inch diameter for flows up
to 1000gph
1 1/4 inch for flows up to 1500
gph
1 1/2 inch for flows up to 3000
gph
Filtration
- A well designed larger pond
should include filitration.
Ask your pond supplier about
a filtration system that will
work well with the pump you
select.
2. Lay a section of liner under
where your waterfall rocks will
go. Make sure that it drapes
down and over the pond liner
and up and over the back of
the waterfall berm. Keep in
mind that this liner will catch
any water that happens to drain
backwards (instead of forwards
into the pond) taking it back
into the pond.
3. Then lay and situate your
tubing with several extra feet
in the pond and several feet
laying over the top of the waterfall
berm. You might need this extra
footage later for adjustments
that may have to be made.
TIP: Instead
of laying your tubing so that
it would be directly beneath
the heavy rocks on your waterfall
lay it to the side of where
the waterfall will be and curl
it around the back of the berm
to then spill over the top of
the waterfall. You can easily
disguise it later with rocks
or plants.
Now,
back to the fun part of building
the waterfall. You've selected
a pump that will match the waterfall
and layed your tubing.
Lay your bottom rock for the
waterfall first. We usually select
a large 2-3" thick flat stone
of ample mass and place it so
that it rests over the cavern
we dug when excavating the pond.
The front edge of this first flat
rock should be postioned so that
it will jut out over the water
of the pond, forming an overhang
that sits 3" or more above
what will be the water level in
the pond. If you need to raise
this rock place smaller flat stones
beneath it. When you have this
first stone in place and set,
run some water from a hose over
it to make sure it is angled so
that it spills into the pond.
TIP: The spillway
rocks should be relatively flat
(as opposed to rocks that are
more rounded in shape). They should
also have sharp, squarish edges.
Water will cascade more cleanly
over such edges. When rocks have
blunt, gently-curving edges, some
of the water tends to follow that
curve and trickle back under the
rocks. A little water trickling
under is okay - the liner you
placed beneath the waterfall will
catch and drain it back into the
pond.
Now you are ready to lay the
next spillway rock. Select a few
small stones close in size and
lay them on top - along the sides
and back of your base stone. Now,
place the next spillway rock on
top of these rocks. Once you have
this rock in place perform the
waterhose test and make any necessary
adjustments. Below is another
photo of that waterfall we built.
TIP: Typically,
when building rock waterfalls,
it's a good idea to stagger the
levels.
Small
Stone to hold tubing
in place----> |
Top
Rock--> |
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Spillway
Rock Staggered Back---> |
Small
stones used to elevate
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Bottom
Spillway Rock---------> |
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Do the same thing for the top
spillway rock as you did for the
second spillway rock. If you look
closely you'll see that we used
a small boulder with a concave
in the center as out top spillway
rock. After using small stones
to elevate your top spillway rock
do the waterhose test again to
make sure all spillway levels
are spilling properly. make minor
adjustment if necessary using
small slivers of flat stone to
increas elevations here and there.
NOTE: You may want to continue
laying levels, until you've reached
the height you desire. Our pond
was three levels.
You're almost done now. It's
time to install and hook up the
pump.
Place your pump in the cavern
under the waterfall, or somewhere
close to the waterfall if you
didn't dig for a cavern. Attach
the tubing to the pump as shown
in the manual that came with the
pump. Your tubing should be laying
alongside the waterfall, though
you have probably already figured
out how to disguise it and cover
it up with a few rocks.
Now go to the back of the waterfall
berm and place the top end of
the tubing on top of the top spillway
rock. Use a small 'cap' rock on
top of the tubing to hold it in
place as shown in the photo above.
You'll might have to play with
the cap stone a little to acheive
good water flow.
Now, you're ready to fill the
pond with water, plug in the pump's
cord, and test the flow of your
natural rock waterfall. No doubt,
you'll have to make several adjustments
before you get everything right.
The objective is to get the water
to fall into the pond with as
little trickling beneath and behind
your spillway rocks as possible.
NOTE: There's some compromise
involved with your waterfall design:
greater height equals greater
visual impact, but greater height
may equal greater water-loss.
Another consideration on height:
keep your natural rock waterfall
in proportion with the pond. A
general rule of thumb would be,
the smaller the pond, the shorter
the rock waterfall.
It took two of us a day to build
the pond and the waterfall y've
seen in the photos above. After
reading all of these instructions
it may seem like a difficult thing
to do: to build your own pond.
It's not. However, if you feel
intimidated don't hesistate to
contact and consult with a local
pond building expert.
Happy water gardening!